Big Bend National Park

Big Bend has a couple of distinct areas being the river, desert and mountains so something for everyone.  The park has the Rio Grande river at its outer boundary of the US as well.  Some of the hikes within canyons along the river you are looking at 1/2 US and 1/2 Mexico!  The river area has an elevation of about 1,715 feet and the mountains are 7,825 ensuring the climate is different in both regions.  I experienced a 15 degree difference between the mountains and the river.  The most common animals I saw was the roadrunner, and ducks.  The ducks came into a marshy area of the river at night while the roadrunners were all around.  Wild horses were observed within the park grounds on a few occasions.  I did miss out on the black bears, mountain lions, bobcats, and javelina.  If you are a birdie there are plenty of birds to view on your journey throughout the park.  The park has four different visitor centers but only two official entrances to the park.  The visitor centers are Rio Grande Village and it is very small but there is a ranger/volunteer at the center along with restrooms and water station.  Panther Junction is another visitor center that I visited and they additionally have a US Post Office and it larger than the Rio Grande.  The Chios Basin the third location of a visitor center.  I did not go into this one although, I did got to the Chios Basin despite the warning that RVs and vehicles over 24 feet were not allowed.  The reason for the warning is there road has some hairpin turns that could be tricky in a large vehicle or pulling a large trailer.  The last location for a visitor center is Castolon and I did not go there at all.  Throughout the park there are many roads that are not paved but just dirt roads.  The dirt was hard packed when I was there but I could see them being a bit muddy after some rain so be careful.  Off many of these roads are places to camp if you are so inclined, but I was not due to the van not having 4 wheel drive nor made for the back country driving.  Big Bend has plenty of places to hike and explore for all ages and fitness levels.

Rio Grande Campground – the campground is right on the Rio Grande river hence the name.  There are three main loops within the campground.  The loops contain about 100 spots.  Restrooms are available with places to wash dishes but no showers or electric/sewage at the various sites, like most National Parks.  The sites are a combination of back in and drive through sites.  When I was there the park was irrigating/watering the grass by flooding the grassy areas with water so tenters had to seek higher ground of the car parking area for their tents.  Each site has a BBQ grill, concrete picnic table and one bench, and a shelter over the table.  I am sure having a shelter is a good thing for the summer as limited shade is within the entire park.  It was not really needed when I was there as it was in the 70’s not 100’s as the summer is in Texas.  Good news is there is a camp store that has laundry and showers!  The showers are $2.00 for five minutes and I did not check out the laundry as it was not needed.  The store offers basic necessities but also some trinkets of Big Bend.  Fuel is sold at the store but the pumps are not automatic you have to bring your keys into the store and then they will turn the pump on for you to pump regular or diesel.  Propane is also here for refilling your tank.    The store offers a “campground” with full hookups however the campground is a parking lot next to the store if you need the full hookups. Note:  The campground has a Nature Trail that is accessible from the campground and it has a nice place to see the sun rise and fall daily.  Along the way at night stop on the bridge over the marsh to watch the ducks land in the marsh.  You can see them hit the water but you can hear them hitting the water, it is cool.

Boquillas Canyon – the hike is a short 1.4 mile round trip starting at the South end of the parking area at the end of Boquilla road.  The parking are is not large but could handle 20 or so vehicles.  The trail head is on the South end of the parking area and is well marked.  The parking area also has a vault toilet and trash cans.  The trail goes up at the beginning and that is the hardest part of the entire hike.  The up and down is within the first 0.5 miles of the hike then it is mainly flat and goes through trees.  There are a few “vendors” selling hand made trinkets from Mexico and these “vendors” are all on horse or donkey back as they cross the river into the US.  The trail is dirt and/or packed sand during the way up and down followed by the trees.  Once you are out of the trees it is more of a rocky and sandy mixture of your hike.  When you exit the trees you are along the Rio Grand River and in a beautiful canyon.  If you continue on the trail you will come the the end where the trail stops and you can go into the river, it is not even boot high when I went.  I crossed in the river and went down a ways until it was too deep for me to travel without getting my feet wet.  I turned back around and made my journey back to the van.  There was one part along the trail that it looks like it goes up and over some rocks but you can also go around the rocks at the same level.  One the outbound trip I went up and over and it was not the easy way.  The way back I went over the rocks although it was faster it was also on the side of the rocks and you could have fallen into the river.  I did not fall and this way was much faster even with me going slow.  There are a few places along the way allowing you to go down to the river if you choose once you get out of the tree area.  The hike is well worth it and the best part is that you can take as long or as short as you want on this trail.  It is easy as it is mostly flat so just buckle up and get up and over the start and you will have some beautiful views of the canyon.

Hot Springs – Yes Big Bend has a hot springs area!  The spring is at the end of a dirt road and about 1/4 mile walk from the parking area.  I was not able to drive to the parking area as there is a sign saying RV, dual wheeled vehicles and trailers are not allowed beyond this point.  I parked and walked to the parking area for the springs.  There is a nice picnic area on the Rio Grande here along with some buildings from the 1940’s you can view.  Additionally, there is some pictograms on the walls of rock on the way to the hot springs.  The hot springs area is a blocked area built to retain the spring water and allow seating to enjoy the hot water on the Rio Grande.  The hike from the parking lot is just over a foot bridge and it goes along the river.  It was a  nice surprise to me that there was a hot spring that you could actually go into here at Big Bend.  I put my feet in the water since I did not have a suit and there were kids so no getting into water sans clothes and also my Dr. does not like me going into hot tubs.  The hot spring was worth the time and if you make it to Big Bend bring a suit to go into the water after a day of hiking or in lieu of hiking.

Window View Trail – The trail is a paved path that is 0.3 miles and you can get to it just to the left of the Chisos camp store.  On the trail there are a few viewpoints to enjoy.  The Window view point has a bench to sit and enjoy the fabulous view.   The first view point talks about how the mountains were created by volcanic activity and the third one is about the animals you may come across.  Bear, are Mountain Lions are the two big creatures you may encounter in the area.  

Window Trail –  The trail head is just the the left of the Chisos camp store and it is 5.8 miles round trip from the store or you can shorten the hike to 4.7 miles if you go to the campground and park there.  Entrance from the campground is near campsite 51.  I left from the camp store and did the 5.8 miles.  Be sure to bring water and don’t go in the heat of the day in the summer as there is little shade on this trail the first and last mile.  The first mile of the trail is downhill and is a gravel path with logs to step over.  You will use switchbacks until you meet up with the campground part of the trail, it is not the housing with the coral so just keep going.  When the two starting points meet the trail is 3.8 miles.  The trail is rock and dirt for most of the trail and it on a slight downhill.  Parts of the trail are very rocky as you do enter a canyon walking over river rocks.  I would think in the wet season you may have to go through some water.  The trail is marked with signs at junction points but for the most part you can follow the path very easily as it is well worn.  The sign saying the window is only 1/4 mile away is a good site but you will be in another canyon and this one has stairs you will walk up and down.  The stairs are stone and are similar to that of stairs in your home without any railing.  There is also some rocks you have to navigate but it is all very doable and the end of the trail is near.  When you come to the end of the trail you get a wonderful view of the gap between two mountains and are able to look out.    Overall the trail is very nice and there are even two spots with wooden benches for you to sit and rest.

Ore Terminal Trail – The trail head is located across the parking area for the Marufo Vega trail.  You follow the same trail until there is a bit of a “Y” marked with a sign about 1 mile into the hike.  This first part of the hike is in a dry creek bed so it is very rocky and you do cross the bed a few times before the “Y” in the trail.  Going to the left is the Ore Terminal Trail and one final time to cross the creek bed and heading up.  Quickly you will notice a cable used to help carrier the ore from the mining entrance to the river.  Following the cable is not advisable but keeping it in site is advisable.  You do come across some old ore “cars” and some transition points for these cable cars.  The trail is up and down and is 3.3 miles in one direction from the “Y” in the road or a total of 8.6 miles from the start to finish and back.  One great thing about this trail is you can stop and go back whenever you want as it is an out and back hike.  When I had just started the trail a young man stated to me he had not see another person in 24 hours but he was hiking the Marufo Vega trail and had camped the previous night.  Needless to say I did not see another person on the Ore trail but did see a couple going to camp on the Marufo Vega trail that night.  In a nut shell, you can enjoy listening to nature and not having to deal with people on this trail as it is not a busy trail.